Two- and three-dimensional computation of solitary wave runup on non-plane beach
1Dept. of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Sungkyunkwan Univ., Chunchun-dong 300, Jangan-gu, Suwon 440-746, Korea
2Dept. of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Inst. of Applied Physics, 46 Uljanov Street, Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia
3Inst. of Cybernetics, Tallinn Univ. of Technology, Akadeemia tee 21, 12618 Tallinn, Estonia
4Dept. of Ocean Science, Inha Univ., 253 Yonghyun-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon 402-751, Korea
Abstract. Solitary wave runup on a non-plane beach is studied analytically and numerically. For the theoretical approach, nonlinear shallow-water theory is applied to obtain the analytical solution for the simplified bottom geometry, such as an inclined channel whose cross-slope shape is parabolic. It generalizes Carrier-Greenspan approach for long wave runup on the inclined plane beach that is currently used now. For the numerical study, the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) system is applied to study soliton runup on an inclined beach and the detailed characteristics of the wave processes (water displacement, velocity field, turbulent kinetic energy, energy dissipation) are analyzed. In this study, it is theoretically and numerically proved that the existence of a parabolic cross-slope channel on the plane beach causes runup intensification, which is often observed in post-tsunami field surveys.
Citation: Choi, B. H., Pelinovsky, E., Kim, D. C., Didenkulova, I., and Woo, S.-B.: Two- and three-dimensional computation of solitary wave runup on non-plane beach, Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 15, 489-502, doi:10.5194/npg-15-489-2008, 2008.