Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics www.nonlin-processes-geophys.net 1023-5809 1607-7946 3 2 1996 10.5194/npg-3-127-1996 http://www.nonlin-processes-geophys.net/3/127/1996/ http://www.nonlin-processes-geophys.net/3/127/1996/npg-3-127-1996.html http://www.nonlin-processes-geophys.net/3/127/1996/npg-3-127-1996.pdf 127 134 0000-00-00 Nonlinear wave energy modelling in the surf zone Th. V. Karambas Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Department of Civil Engineering, Division of Hydraulics and Environmental Engineering, Thessaloniki, 54006, Greece Breaking wave energy in the surf zone is modelled through the incorporation of the time dependent energy balance equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation model. The energy equations solved simultaneously with the momentum and continuity equation. Turbulence effects and the non uniform horizontal velocity distribution due to breaking is introduced in both the energy and momentum equations. The dissipation term is a function of the velocity defect derived from a turbulent analysis. The resulting system predicts both wave characteristics (surface elevation and velocity) and the energy distribution inside surf zone. The model is validated against experimental data and analytical expressions.