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Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics An interactive open-access journal of the European Geosciences Union
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Volume 20, issue 1
Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 20, 35-40, 2013
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-20-35-2013
© Author(s) 2013. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.

Special issue: Nonlinear dynamics of the coastal zone

Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 20, 35-40, 2013
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-20-35-2013
© Author(s) 2013. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.

Research article 09 Jan 2013

Research article | 09 Jan 2013

Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach

A. Ezersky1, N. Abcha1, and E. Pelinovsky2,3,4 A. Ezersky et al.
  • 1CNRS, UMR6143 – Morphodynamique Continentale et Côtière (M2C), Université Caen Basse, Normandie, 24 rue des Tilleuls, 14000 Caen, France
  • 2Institute of Applied Physics, 46, Ul'janov St., Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia
  • 3Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
  • 4National Research University – Higher School of Economics, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia

Abstract. Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequency and magnitude of the maximum amplification are in good correlation with the numerical calculation results represented in the paper (Stefanakis et al., 2011). These effects are very important for understanding the nature of rogue waves in the coastal zone.

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