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Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics An interactive open-access journal of the European Geosciences Union
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Volume 24, issue 2
Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 24, 237–253, 2017
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-24-237-2017
© Author(s) 2017. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.
Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 24, 237–253, 2017
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-24-237-2017
© Author(s) 2017. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.

Research article 06 Jun 2017

Research article | 06 Jun 2017

Ocean swell within the kinetic equation for water waves

Sergei I. Badulin and Vladimir E. Zakharov

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Short summary
In our simulations of sea swell, we show that its evolution exhibits remarkable features of universality. At long stretches the swell ``forgets'' initial conditions and keeps its specific distribution of wave energy in scales and directions. Slow evolution of swell in time and space can be related to fundamental relationships of the so-called theory of weak turbulence that gives a solid basis for the swell prediction.
In our simulations of sea swell, we show that its evolution exhibits remarkable features of...
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